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Son of a Son of a Sailor
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195 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Airbox removal and replacement procedure
Remove four screws attaching gas cap surround to tank, these are located at 12,3,6,and 9 o’clock positions. The remaining four screws hold surround to tank cover, they do not need to be removed, nor does the gas cap.
Raise the front of tank cover approx ½”, slide hands along both sides of tank and release from detent, approx 3” from rear of tank cover. The cover should release with minimal pressure, the detents are not but 1/8 “. Place cover in a safe area.
The airbox is held onto the tank with two bolts. There are blind nuts in tank, so you will not need a wrench or anything to hold the nut. The tank is held to the frame with a bolt vertically in the rear, and one bolt horizontally in the front.
The scoop is held in place by two screws at the rear, you can slide the electrical plug from the airbox. This is the plug for the euro version active intake valve, it is plugged in the US version.. The front of the scoop is held in place with two plastic push pins. To access the air filter the top of the airbox is removed by releasing the self tapping screws at the perimeter of the airbox.
Replacement is accomplished by fitting the rubber boot to the intake horn, and then fitting the airbox to the rubber collar. The tank is then slipped down onto the airbox and frame simultaneously. The trick here involves the ignition switch bracket on the right side of the frame, and the ignition coil bracket on the left side. The brackets have a square cutout that fits over a corresponding square tab on the frame, the tank fits outside of these brackets holding them in place on frame, the bolt goes thru all of this assembly. I found a helper to hold brackets in place while tank is lowered helps immensely.
Now just a matter of bolting and tightening all mount bolts, slipping tank cover in place, screwing surround down to retain tank cover, start and enjoy.
 

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Some gave all
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124 Posts
Thanks, I would have removed all the screws and probably lost one. My filter/scoop operation went well and I'm on the road.
 

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Reading the Pictures
'12 "x" always in-the-works..
Joined
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248 Posts
* Same thing w/ the airbox reattachment to the inner gas tank -- only way I got those holes lined up is the hardware is pointed!
 

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Reading the Pictures
'12 "x" always in-the-works..
Joined
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248 Posts
Airbox removal and replacement procedure
Remove four screws attaching gas cap surround to tank, these are located at 12,3,6,and 9 o’clock positions. The remaining four screws hold surround to tank cover, they do not need to be removed, nor does the gas cap.
Raise the front of tank cover approx ½”, slide hands along both sides of tank and release from detent, approx 3” from rear of tank cover. The cover should release with minimal pressure, the detents are not but 1/8 “. Place cover in a safe area.
The airbox is held onto the tank with two bolts. There are blind nuts in tank, so you will not need a wrench or anything to hold the nut. The tank is held to the frame with a bolt vertically in the rear, and one bolt horizontally in the front.
The scoop is held in place by two screws at the rear, you can slide the electrical plug from the airbox. This is the plug for the euro version active intake valve, it is plugged in the US version.. The front of the scoop is held in place with two plastic push pins. To access the air filter the top of the airbox is removed by releasing the self tapping screws at the perimeter of the airbox.
Replacement is accomplished by fitting the rubber boot to the intake horn, and then fitting the airbox to the rubber collar. The tank is then slipped down onto the airbox and frame simultaneously. The trick here involves the ignition switch bracket on the right side of the frame, and the ignition coil bracket on the left side. The brackets have a square cutout that fits over a corresponding square tab on the frame, the tank fits outside of these brackets holding them in place on frame, the bolt goes thru all of this assembly. I found a helper to hold brackets in place while tank is lowered helps immensely.
Now just a matter of bolting and tightening all mount bolts, slipping tank cover in place, screwing surround down to retain tank cover, start and enjoy.
So... I'm surprised there's not more about this sort of procedure elsewhere on the forum (or, more likely, I just haven't found it.) Nonetheless, this is where my searches have lead me when attempting to inspect my air filter.

I have to point out two royal pains-in-ass, when it came to the reinstall (Taking things apart is always the easy part.)

1. The rubber boot, intake horn, and collar did not come together easily. I had to disassemble and reassemble the air box itself to get things in place, from the bottom up.

2. The holes for the gas cap surround, and the tank cover detents would not line up, no matter what order I tried. Ultimately I used an additional allen key to position the gas cap surround in alignment w/ each coordinating thread while simultaneously the detents where already in place. Of course one popped out upon torquing the last allen bot. Did all this again -- same thing. Cannot get the tank cover to fit proper. :/

Anybody have suggestions here? I snapped a few shots, though dark.
 

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Endeavor to Persevere!
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5,336 Posts
Buy one of the "Blackhorn" type filters or build your own.

Parts;















Finished;

 

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Premium Member
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14,910 Posts
After 40 or 50 times you can do it blindfolded... Your tank is swollen...which is not a prob cause so is nearly everyone else's :)... What airfilter is that?

On reassembly put the rubber boot securely on the throttle body then press the airbox down onto the greased rubber boot and it will pop into place....
 

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Scooter Trash
Joined
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576 Posts
"2. The holes for the gas cap surround, and the tank cover detents would not line up, no matter what order I tried. Ultimately I used an additional allen key to position the gas cap surround in alignment w/ each coordinating thread while simultaneously the detents where already in place. Of course one popped out upon torquing the last allen bot. Did all this again -- same thing. Cannot get the tank cover to fit proper. :/

Anybody have suggestions here? I snapped a few shots, though dark."



Try removing gas cap before installing shroud & are the vent hose & ground wire in the right place......
Alan
If that don't work you can alway Suck Hard on the vent hose to deflate the tank while installing the shroud screws... but if you do this, we must see a video.
 

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www.jp2code.net
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20,701 Posts
I fear it looks like you installed the Piper Cross air filter and left the valve cover puke tubes connected to the air box.

The moisture out of those puke tubes will get on the Piper Cross air filter - and it will dissolve.

I am sorry to be the one to tell you this AFTER you have bought that brand of air filter and AFTER you put the air box back together.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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14,910 Posts
I fear it looks like you installed the Piper Cross air filter and left the valve cover puke tubes connected to the air box.

The moisture out of those puke tubes will get on the Piper Cross air filter - and it will dissolve.

I am sorry to be the one to tell you this AFTER you have bought that brand of air filter and AFTER you put the air box back together.
I don't say this often enough, but Joe's right. :)
 

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Scooter Trash
Joined
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576 Posts
I use that filter.. I also took your advise & disconnected the puke hose & am now puking on the side of the road......
Alan
15,000 miles later, it's still working as advertised... I guess what I'm saying is.. I like the PiperCross, never had the K&N & it works better then stock, cause in the long run you don't have to replace it... Soap & water
 

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Will work for tacos
Joined
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446 Posts
I fear it looks like you installed the Piper Cross air filter and left the valve cover puke tubes connected to the air box.

The moisture out of those puke tubes will get on the Piper Cross air filter - and it will dissolve.

I am sorry to be the one to tell you this AFTER you have bought that brand of air filter and AFTER you put the air box back together.
Wait whaaat? I did my filter long ago and I dont remember not connecting a tube... I guess I could check that today when I trim my tabs down.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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14,910 Posts
My Piper Cross didn't last a year before it disintegrated. And that was without the breather hoses in the air box!
nor did mine ..... I remember emailing pics to Pipercross and they seemed concerned and said they'd send me a new one if I returned my old one..... But I didn't :) .... It is likely though, with the total failure of those early filters, that they have redesigned and improved the filter since then...... The early ones were awful lollollol....they came apart at the seams, the filter foam would dissolve in big chunks leaving big holes....it was awful :) ..... So, yeah, I'm hoping they fixed that in the past 5 years......

Wait whaaat? I did my filter long ago and I dont remember not connecting a tube... I guess I could check that today when I trim my tabs down.
 

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Will work for tacos
Joined
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446 Posts
I checked mine. (My bike still only has 5k miles on it so really wasnt on my list of things to do) All was still in one piece except for the corner the wire was breaking from the molding. So it may be safe to just connect them back I dunno since ST said his messed up even with them disconnected.
 
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