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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gents,

I could use some guidance.

Yesterday we installed a Storz shifter along w/ a pair of M-Factory adjustable foot pegs.

The ride home through Los Angeles rush hour traffic (highly not fun) was a bit awkward. My foot placement on the new pegs is now a good inch plus outboard due to the adjustable design of the M-Factory pegs. This forced me to angle my toes inward to properly engage the rear brake and (to a lesser extent) the shifter. This also effected the angle of my knees into the tank.

If I could lose the spring "housing" and mount the pegs in tighter, that would help.

For general comfort & improved ergonomics, I dig the concept of dropping the pegs and moving them slightly rearward. I have briefly tested rearsets (Sato) and while their quality and design is great, they're not really a good solution for a tall rider w/ a lot of hard mileage on his knees.

Any suggestions? I know the Knights pegs drop, but don't move further back - so it'd be a halfway solution.

Many thanks!
 

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Whistling Dixie!
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Could you mount some of the Knight pegs on the Sato rearsets?

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Gents,

I could use some guidance.

Yesterday we installed a Storz shifter along w/ a pair of M-Factory adjustable foot pegs.

The ride home through Los Angeles rush hour traffic (highly not fun) was a bit awkward. My foot placement on the new pegs is now a good inch plus outboard due to the adjustable design of the M-Factory pegs. This forced me to angle my toes inward to properly engage the rear brake and (to a lesser extent) the shifter. This also effected the angle of my knees into the tank.

If I could lose the spring "housing" and mount the pegs in tighter, that would help.

For general comfort & improved ergonomics, I dig the concept of dropping the pegs and moving them slightly rearward. I have briefly tested rearsets (Sato) and while their quality and design is great, they're not really a good solution for a tall rider w/ a lot of hard mileage on his knees.

Any suggestions? I know the Knights pegs drop, but don't move further back - so it'd be a halfway solution.

Many thanks!
I have those same pegs but have yet to mount them. Contrary to your problem/description it looks like you'd have a bigger problem on the shift lingahe side rather than the brake lever. Perhaps it's the pic angle. I think there will be no issue for me as I have the stock shifter. Brake side is another story I suppose. What size is your feet btw. I'm not tall like you so I intend to adjust them rearward and maybe slightly higher.
Rich

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rich, thanks for the reply

I'm 6'1", but have feet like my sister....9.5 / 10.

As for the pic angles, I take the shot upright (Iphone or Ipad) and then when I post on the forums it rotates them 90 degrees counter clockwise. Anyone know how to fix that?

On yesterday's ride I could always find the shifter even if the angle was slightly off, but I literally missed the rear brake lever on more than one occasion where my toe was just off to the right of the pedal.

I suppose wider extensions on the shifter & brake pedal may help.
 

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WTF???
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Gents,

I could use some guidance.

Yesterday we installed a Storz shifter along w/ a pair of M-Factory adjustable foot pegs.

The ride home through Los Angeles rush hour traffic (highly not fun) was a bit awkward. My foot placement on the new pegs is now a good inch plus outboard due to the adjustable design of the M-Factory pegs. This forced me to angle my toes inward to properly engage the rear brake and (to a lesser extent) the shifter. This also effected the angle of my knees into the tank.

If I could lose the spring "housing" and mount the pegs in tighter, that would help.

For general comfort & improved ergonomics, I dig the concept of dropping the pegs and moving them slightly rearward. I have briefly tested rearsets (Sato) and while their quality and design is great, they're not really a good solution for a tall rider w/ a lot of hard mileage on his knees.

Any suggestions? I know the Knights pegs drop, but don't move further back - so it'd be a halfway solution.

Many thanks!
The Knight pegs have the same issue of moving your foot out too wide.

I have these and they are a bit better. I think from the same company.

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Since you are in So. Cal. are you coming to the So. Cal. XROG EPIC VIII at the end of May?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ytman - many thanks; that post really helped to illustrate that upgrade - I was considering a similar toe peg modification to match the Storz shifter. I'll post pics when I get it done.

MadDog - I'm on the list for EPIC as a distinct possibility. We're sorting out a weekend visit with family in Santa Ynez which, if it plays out, will be a great launching site from which to hook up with you guys for the Santa Barbara ride.
 

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'09 XR1200
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Reviving this thread. Referencing the 1st photo in the thread, I’m looking at getting the pegs closer to center and the 1” space on the “clevis” where the shifter used to go seems like the best place to trim. I’m thinking of cutting the peg mount by that distance and then drill & thread the new screw hole to secure to the bike. Looking at the part there is also a lathe involved to get the new insert area reduced in diameter. Seems like a machine shop will be needed. Anyone do this, or have a better idea? The bracket that the peg mounts to may also have extra material to trim. Even doing this the pegs will be spaced far apart - I measured the other bikes in the garage and they are 16” inside of peg to inside opposite peg, and the XR is 20”. I’m 6’6” with an old hip injury resurfacing since getting this bike so some changes are necessary. Thanks.
 

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used ta could
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There’s plenty of space to be had on the shifter side once the shifter is no longer on the shaft. The brake side not so much. Although you did just get me thinking about a separate pivot shaft for the brake pedal ala Buell.(the closest thing to the XR) The problem is magnified with drop pegs. I don’t know if you got the drop pegs or not but I did pick up the feeling of more space by dropping the head of the pivot down flush with the peg by changing the spring.
 

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37 Posts
I did 1” lower pegs. Thinking I should have gone with 2” and will make that change then figure out the brake lever. Good call on using standard springs for some additional space. But the width is really causing a pinch point in my left hip so this maybe a combination of things.

which model Buell? I’ll take a look at one for some ideas.
 

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used ta could
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Have you thought of using a taller seat? I know the width of the foot position is a situation. I’m a shorty and I struggle with it. I’ve been doing little things but not 4 inches worth.
I was thinking Buell XB because there are aftermarket shifters and brake pedals by the same manufacturer but I haven’t done the research on the brake pedal. I have done some foot work on the shifter ( hey, I made a joke) and I would not recommend the Buell bushing set up or even the upgraded bronze bushings.
 

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A taller seat will be part of the deal for sure. My experiment with another seat, airhawk, yoga mat, foam, etc indicates a seat about even with the cowl. That’s a high COG so I’d like to make sure on the pegs and bars before having the seat made.

This looks like good solution (from The One Show).
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