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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I took my bike out today for a decent ride, around 4 hours. I had done a good two hour tune about a month ago, and hit a lot of cells on it, and loaded that map before heading out today. A few things I noticed today, however, is a big power lag when twisting the throttle wide open in one big go. It feels like its stuttering, and sometimes the engine even paused when doing so, slower move of twisting the throttle on didn't produce that.

As a result I'm wondering if I need to play with the settings on my power vision. I know the auto tune only really tunes to the values you have it set to, but I have no idea how to play with those values at all. I've also attempted quick tuning to decrease decel pop but there's a huge amount of decel pop between 2 and 3k rpms. I'm running the free spirits air intake and widows, but I kind of feel pretty disenchanted with it all, as my bike, whilst noticeably more powerful, also feels a lot less like a solid bike.

Any advice?
 

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Post up your Powervision AFR settings,
this is what I'm running in my PCV5 with the Autotune, seems to run quite well, but I'm open to suggestions for improvement!
248210
 

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Following because I have a Fuelpak that came on mine, and am not “versed” on tuning. Eventually I’ll get a Power Commander.
 

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If you have a home computer using windows software, you can download the win pv software that came with your power vision, or you can download it directly from Dynojet.

once you have the win pv loaded, you can connect your power vision to your computer via the cable that came with the PV. You can upload your tune file to your computer and see each individual cell (like in the picture Houseyhousey posted) you can then edit each cell to your liking, once you’ve done that, you can download the edited tune file back into your power vision unit and flash the new tune into your XR’s ECM, and your done

it’s important to update your PV with the most recent updates, while your PV is connected to your computer, download the latest updates to the PV unit
Hope this helps some
Regards
Roy
 

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What base map did you use? Even with Widows and Free Sprits you shouldn't of had that much decel pop. Have you checked the 4 junctions on Widows 2 into 1 into 2 for leaks? Have you checked the inside bend of the header pipes for cracks? There are a bunch of videos on YouTube on how to use the PowerVision, have you watched all of them? When you auto tune, the PowerVision can only hold about 45 minutes of data, so it doesn't do any good to auto tune for 2 hours. It's recommended to ride for 20 minutes, save data, flash that map into the ECU and do that in 3, 20 minutes cycles. Also, before you start the auto, you need to have the engine warmed up, the auto tune is going to set all the Lamba setting to 14.7:1 (it will decel pop like crazy during auto tune) and retard the timing, so it best to auto tune on a cool morning because the bike is going to run hot. Before you start the auto tune, you need to go to the main page and see what your idle KPA is, then on the auto tune page (upper left side), set your min KPA to 5 less that your idle KPA. When you let off the throttle and the engine returns to idle, it can over shoot your min KPA, if it does that, it doesn't record that data, that's why you what your min KPA set 5 below idle. If all that doesn't work, send me your email, and I will send you a Tune for Widows and Free Sprit. Oh, don't use any maps from PowerVision website, they are based on a standard sportster and will run like crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I did go through all the videos on youtube on how to use the power vision. Basically I started from the stock map, haven't made any adjustments, just autotuning based off of that. I'm 99% sure there's no leaks in my pipes, though they could be pulling in some air from the headers as I dont have an inch pound torque wrench, and can't really find one in an all metric country. I did follow the power jet decel pop guide and added the 10 and 5, the decel popping did decrease, but is still there. I originally ran about 5 20 minute sessions, though it was hard to get up to the high throttle position whilst in the city. I have run a few canyon runs, but not as a specific tuning run trying to hit every cell, the roads are pretty congested to do that.

That being said I haven't played with my AFR at all, because I feel thats pretty out of my league, its bone stock there. Here's a copy.
Power to Fuel.jpg


I'm open to suggestions with this stuff, as the only dyno tuner near me is an Indian dealer, and the closest harley dealer with a tuner is about 500km away. Oh, and they want around 1.5k USD for a tune.....
 

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Your off-throttle to idle is way too lean and your top end too fat. It would take a long time to adjust all the A/F on this table. If you want, message me your email and I will send you a map that will take care of all that and sets your KPA to 720. After you get it, load it up and do a couple auto tunes and see if you like it. you may have to reset the quick tune pages (add fuel and spark for decel pop), I don't remember if they reset after auto tune. Not sure if your using your PowerVision gauge function, but I made a mount for mine and monitor engine temp, gear selection, battery voltage. even in 90 degree plus heat, my engine doesn't run over 325, I would bet with those 14.6s at idle, your engine is running pretty hot at idle.
 

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I was advised these AFR ratios are the type of thing to aim for and tried to build my map around them.
13.0-13.2 for peak power at WOT
13.4-13.6 for reasonable gas mileage and good roll on power
14.0-14.2 for good highway cruising gas mileage without excess engine heat
 

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Here is what my A/F table looks like. Richer on low throttle input to help cool the chambers on decel and prevent low rpm surge at steady state throttle and around ~14 in the middle of the cruise band for good mileage and throttle response and 13 to 12 on the upper end for power. Also, because you have narrow band sensors and they can't adjust very far outside of 14.6:1, you want to go into the folder "Fuel" then "Close Loop" then "Close Loop Bias Front/Rear Cyl" and change all the setting to 720. This will add more fuel to the closed loop adjustment as the narrow band sensor can't get very from 14.6:1.


248220
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Here is what my A/F table looks like. Richer on low throttle input to help cool the chambers on decel and prevent low rpm surge at steady state throttle and around ~14 in the middle of the cruise band for good mileage and throttle response and 13 to 12 on the upper end for power. Also, because you have narrow band sensors and they can't adjust very far outside of 14.6:1, you want to go into the folder "Fuel" then "Close Loop" then "Close Loop Bias Front/Rear Cyl" and change all the setting to 720. This will add more fuel to the closed loop adjustment as the narrow band sensor can't get very from 14.6:1.
MM , excuse my ignorance, but how is the Power Vision going to determine the AFR's outside of 14.6:1 if you're running narrow band sensors?
My understanding is that a narrow band sensor output swings full either way depending on whether the mixture is rich or lean therefore the PV would be just guessing at the mixture outside of this ratio.
Can you not fit the wideband sensors like I have with the AutoTune on my PCV?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your off-throttle to idle is way too lean and your top end too fat. It would take a long time to adjust all the A/F on this table. If you want, message me your email and I will send you a map that will take care of all that and sets your KPA to 720. After you get it, load it up and do a couple auto tunes and see if you like it. you may have to reset the quick tune pages (add fuel and spark for decel pop), I don't remember if they reset after auto tune. Not sure if your using your PowerVision gauge function, but I made a mount for mine and monitor engine temp, gear selection, battery voltage. even in 90 degree plus heat, my engine doesn't run over 325, I would bet with those 14.6s at idle, your engine is running pretty hot at idle.

This would make sense, as right at the low end it seems REALLY low on power, but above 3k or so it starts to pull pretty damn hard. I typically keep the diagnostics screen open and monitor the temp and all that jazz, or the cell page open when I'm auto tuning so I can try to continually hit new cells. Typically the temp in the city is around 170 C, or around 338, and around 160C cruising at higher speeds, or around 320. That being said, city riding, that pipe is HOT. Even through leathers.... Do you mind if I steal your settings? I don't really want to run my bike lean for long, and also just want to enjoy it again rather than stressing over how its running constantly....
 

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MM , excuse my ignorance, but how is the Power Vision going to determine the AFR's outside of 14.6:1 if you're running narrow band sensors?
My understanding is that a narrow band sensor output swings full either way depending on whether the mixture is rich or lean therefore the PV would be just guessing at the mixture outside of this ratio.
Can you not fit the wideband sensors like I have with the AutoTune on my PCV?
Houseyhousey, I'm not that knowledgeable on how the ECU calculates A/F ratio using the out of range narrow band sensors (maybe someone can else can jump in and tell us).
 

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This would make sense, as right at the low end it seems REALLY low on power, but above 3k or so it starts to pull pretty damn hard. I typically keep the diagnostics screen open and monitor the temp and all that jazz, or the cell page open when I'm auto tuning so I can try to continually hit new cells. Typically the temp in the city is around 170 C, or around 338, and around 160C cruising at higher speeds, or around 320. That being said, city riding, that pipe is HOT. Even through leathers.... Do you mind if I steal your settings? I don't really want to run my bike lean for long, and also just want to enjoy it again rather than stressing over how its running constantly....
Timbit, please copy all the A/F settings and make a custom map. Also, on the same page, you want to go into the folder labeled "Fuel" then "Close Loop" then "Close Loop Bias Front/Rear Cyl" and change all the setting to 720. This will add more fuel to the closed loop adjustment as the narrow band sensor can't get very from 14.6:1. Run a few auto tunes (make sure you set the min KPA 5 below your idle kpa) after you load the new map, check the quick tune page and make sure the added fuel and spark and still set for the decel pop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay! I've loaded it into my tuner, and if it's NOT a typhoon this weekend like they're predicting, I'll give it a few runs in the AM to see if I can get it balanced. Hopefully this gets me loving my bike again like I did before I tried being a mechanic.
 

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It should run good before the auto tune, if it doesn't something else is wrong. You may never get all the decel pop tuned out, maybe a good dyno run guy can, but I never could.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm good with good enough. I don't need to squeeze every drop out of the bike until I get my race license here lol
 
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