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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey. Forgive me if this has been answered already.
My forum search didn't find and answer.

Bought a heated vest that plugs into the battery tender pigtail. Went for a nice cozy fall ride.
Stopped and the bike wouldn't start again. Just clicking.
Shit, I drained the battery, I thought.
Got a boost, it started up, and I got home.
Plugged it in the charge.
Days later, I went to go for a ride (sans vest)
And it did the same clicking without starting.
Okay, must be the relays.
Bought 2 at the local hd shop.
(they are taller, but according the counter person the shorter ones are discontinued)
Got home, plugged them in (after trimming the fuse box to fit the new taller relays) and same.
Bike still won't start but now the clicking is way faster.
All my fuses and battery are good.

Fyi my starter has always worked pretty well.
But waits a second or two after you press the button.

Any ideas?
 

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the relays were different from the 2008, 2009 and the rest of the years, hopefully the HD dealer knew that, you can still get them from local auto part stores, i know i can get them from my local NAPA store.
Echlin part # AR614 for a 2008 or 2009 model XR1200 for about half the price of the HD ones, good luck, I hope you get it sorted out.
Regards
Roy
 

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You may have a weak battery and or high resistance in the battery cables,

Check battery condition for corrosion around the terminals. Slow charge battery for 10 to 12 hours.
The battery voltage reading should be between 12.5 v to 13.2v with no load on a good battery after charging.
Load test battery battery voltage should not drop below 10v.

If the battery cables are loose or corroded (dirty) this will cause high resistance in circuit making harder to recharge the battery when engine is running.

Load testing battery can be done at most Auto Parts Store.

If not, install battery back on the motorcycle with clean and tighten cables.
Hook up volt meter to battery positive and the negative to good clean engine fin.
Turn on ignition switch to on and switch to run tap starter button.
The battery voltage should no drop below 10v.
If it does drop below 10v. you have a bad battery.

Hope this help

Jim

PS Running the engine for a hour will not bring up the battery to it full capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay Jim. Connections are clean. Cables are not loose.
My battery failed a load test.
I tried another battery I had (that passed a load test but is too big) and the same thing.
Fast clicks but no start.
I did hear the starter spinning though.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just tried cleaning up and sanding the copper parts in the solenoid
As per this guy...
Still the same. Clicks are faster though.
 

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You need to check the voltage at the starter motor.
The positive cable mounted to the lug going to the starter motor is located under the rubber boot cover.
Take a voltage reading at the starter lug and engine fin.
You should get a voltage 12.5v to 13.2v without turning on the ignition key.
The voltage should be the same reading as the battery

If voltage is below, it indicates there is resistance in cables.
Check the Ground (Earth) cable at the engine case bolt behind the primary cover. Loose or corroded.

If the voltage at starter lug is the same as battery 12.5v to 13.2v . The cables are ok
You need to check the voltage drop at the starter motor when cranking the engine.
The voltage drop should not drop below 10.2v, when cranking..

If the voltage at the starter lug drops only slightly below 12.5v and starter clicks and wont start,
you have an issue with the solenoid.

If voltage at the starter lugs drops way below to 7v to 8v , and wont start you may have bad armature in starter motor.

You mentioned you heard starter spinning. The starter pinion drive gear is slipping?
What is clicking starter motor and or relays?
Is it a continuous clicking while holding down start button one time or clicks one time ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks so much HHauto!
I'll look into all of that in the coming days.
Meanwhile, I can tell you that the clicking is continuous.
(Just for S&G, I put the old relays back in. Same result, but with slower clicking.)
And I'm not sure of its origin, nor am I sure if the pinion gear is slipping.

The confusing part of all of this, and maybe I'm wrong for assuming so,
but that this all originated when I wore the heated, plug-in vest.
Maybe that was just coincidental.
Add that to the fact that my bike is 10 years old, but it only has 25 000kms (15 500miles) on the clock, and I'm very confused.

It's always the g.d. electrical...
 

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@hhauto
This is great electrical dignostics here, and would cover more that I would know to check. Oder bikes, and dirty/poor/corroded ground wires to the engine has been many a culprit of electrical and issues.

To add, check the engine running voltage at the battery with the RPMs around 2500 without the vest plugged in, and then with the vest plugged in. Would be interesting to see if the system is charging the battery correctly. Not that this is your no-start issue, but just another test. Did it all work OK before you started using the vest?

Do you have an H-D Factory Service Manual?
 

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You need to check the voltage at the starter motor.
The positive cable mounted to the lug going to the starter motor is located under the rubber boot cover.
Take a voltage reading at the starter lug and engine fin.
You should get a voltage 12.5v to 13.2v without turning on the ignition key.
The voltage should be the same reading as the battery

If voltage is below, it indicates there is resistance in cables.
Check the Ground (Earth) cable at the engine case bolt behind the primary cover. Loose or corroded.

If the voltage at starter lug is the same as battery 12.5v to 13.2v . The cables are ok
You need to check the voltage drop at the starter motor when cranking the engine.
The voltage drop should not drop below 10.2v, when cranking..

If the voltage at the starter lug drops only slightly below 12.5v and starter clicks and wont start,
you have an issue with the solenoid.

If voltage at the starter lugs drops way below to 7v to 8v , and wont start you may have bad armature in starter motor.

You mentioned you heard starter spinning. The starter pinion drive gear is slipping?
What is clicking starter motor and or relays?
Is it a continuous clicking while holding down start button one time or clicks one time ?
hhauto, Sorry for correcting you, but the starter cables could still have a high resistance/poor connection even if the voltage at the starter lug is similar to the battery voltage, until you press the starter button and put a load on the cables.
It only takes a small resistance across a joint for the voltage to fall once the starter motor tries to draw it's full current. When measuring the voltage with a meter and no load you could still get a good voltage reading at the lugs because the meter will only draw microamps meaning that the current is not high enough to cause a volt drop across a bad joint. It is a pit I seen many an electrician fall into whilst fault finding!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@hhauto
Did it all work OK before you started using the vest?

Do you have an H-D Factory Service Manual?
Yes, everything worked well before the vest.
No, I haven't got a service manual yet. I plan to though.
I figured I wouldn't need one for my turnkey bike that I'm not gonna mess with. Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No. I don't have a reader. Would an automotive one work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Interesting. Here's another fyi: I removed the tssm as per sveral posts. My check engine light does come on and go off often, but I figured that was just part of the deal.
I'll read this thread and see...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, so here's where it gets weird:
I plugged the bike into my battery power pack and followed the instructions to check for fault codes.
Under P (for ECM) I got P0131 (front O2 sensor low), P0151 (rear O2 sensor low) and P1009 (incorrect password)
Under S (TSSM - which is now gone) I got b1121 (left turn output open/fault) and b1122 (right turn output open/fault)
(I have replaced the stock rear lighting with an integrated led unit)
Nothing for anything else.
Except that the part number that came up at the end was 74714-10. The tachometer.
I'll come back to this.

Then, for S&G, I tried starting the bike.
No clicking. Just very slow attempts by the starter. I held on, and after about 6 - 8 tries, it fired up.

So. Here are my ignorant thoughts:
- Why does god hate us so much that he ALWAYS makes our bike issues electrical.
I digress.
- To me, this all points to needing a new battery. Everything worked properly until the vest came into the mix.
As is usually the case, the electrical gods aren't appeased until you've made a financial offering in the form of a new battery.

Now, for the other codes and tachometer:
- I suspect these codes are older and/or tied to the missing tssm.
(I will try to clear them and reassess.)
But have I missed a step? There is a plug that is no longer tied to anything.
So is it saying the tach is no longer "proper" because it keeps looking for the tssm and that's why it's calling for a replacement?
I hope so. It works well, and I don't feel like buying a replacement with inaccurate mileage, or paying through the nose for an accurate one.

I will also check my charging circuit.

What are "O2 sensors low"? Do they just need replacing?

Sorry that I only know enough to get myself into trouble.
 

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Do you really removed the TSSM ?.Okay,the Rest of Faults showing up your Bike needs a helping Hand of a Pro.
First put in a fresh/good/new Battery.Check the Charging of the Battery.At 1000 there must be a reading of 13,2 Volts.Lower,12,9 V showing the Battery.Next,a XR allways starts after a few turns of the Engine,if not there is another Problem.
Low O2 Sensors means Battery/Power is to low.Sensors needs 12,5V min to heat.
A new Tachometer/Rev counter will not help.Its poss.to make over the origin Miles of the Bikes to any Tachometer because its in the ECU.READ the Owners Manual.GoodLuck.
 

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Hi Duroche,

Just my .02 but if you're getting a new battery, consider a LiFePo. That is, a lithium. Had mine in 5 years, never needs trickle charging, always starts the bike. I still have the XR "pregnant pause", which is worst when the bike's stone cold plus cold weather, but ALWAYS starts the bike. Strong buy from me, I'm never going back to acid/gel. I don't object to dropping 4 kg neither.

J.
 
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