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Which bracket are you referring to? The one that bolts on to the side of the case/clutch cover? It's just a piece of aluminum. Cut it with a jigsaw.
 

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used ta could
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Does anyone have access to a machine to make me a bracket, so I can assemble a Mr. H shifter?
When I see “Mr.H shifter” I think of one like this on Decaf’s machine. I’m not sure of the length or where the toe peg needs to be. The Buell shifter is 4 1/8” from pivot center to toe peg center. If you have all the pieces and know what you really need I can cut you a bracket from 1/4” Aluminium. It will be made by hand.Theres no machine. Blight posted a drawing with dimensions on one of the early pages of this thread.

88884C7D-7F9D-48B0-806E-D69AF12F9A5D.jpeg

This shifter uses the stock arm with bigger bolts and rod ends than the Buell set up.
 

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used ta could
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Just a note to anyone wanting to put one of these “get ups” on their bike. It may have already been said way back when, in amongst all the usual B&M (bitching and moaning) of early threads, but the Buell connecting rod has reverse threads on one end signified by a little groove cut into it and one reverse thread heim. This is so you can adjust the length without disconnecting the heims. You just loosen the jamb nuts, turn the tube, and the overall length grows or shrinks. This may seem like a minuscule detail but if you have to cut the sleeve like I did, and you need to tap a few more threads inside it, you want to trim the end with standard threads. Unless, of course, you have a reverse 10-32 tap in your kit. Also....if you’re making your own rod with parts from McMaster Carr or Ace or wherever and you buy a threaded tube it’s going to have standard threads all the way through and you need two standard thread heim joints. The good thing about doing it that way is the jamb nuts spin towards each other to lock making a more secure hold. With the Buell set up both jamb nuts and the sleeve all turn the same direction so it’s hard to get a secure “jamb”. The little tube is hard to grip.
I hope this helps someone.

C17F8F46-C989-45C0-9ED3-0317A78BD6CF.jpeg
 

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Way to go MacGyver
 
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Reading the Pictures
'12 "x" always in-the-works..
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Haha,
Way to push through it man — ingenuity FTW
 

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You been STOMPING on that shifter with size 12s or what ?? :rolleyes:


Years ago I did a 50 mph low side slide that ripped my rearset left footpeg right out of the frame on a Suzuki 1100 .
My buddy and I were at a race a couple of hundred miles from home , so I rode thru the weekend and then
the return trip back to MD with my food resting on the engine case . Not comfy , but quite doable .


George
 

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Sonya's a pretty kitty!
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Well that was fun.....not. One of the #10 bolts sheared off this morning on my way to work. Had to make a jockey shifter out of vice grips. I put bungees on them after I had to walk back after them once. Who needs coffee in the morning. View attachment 248208
Well improvised, yt. Maybe go with a high tensile #10 bolt this time. They are black (at least here in Aus they are) so may need some silver paint. But well done, you. The Brits used to call roadside improvising to just get home "bodging". Bit of a lost art these days, not sure if that's a good thing or not...

J.
 

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Well that was fun.....not. One of the #10 bolts sheared off this morning on my way to work. Had to make a jockey shifter out of vice grips. I put bungees on them after I had to walk back after them once. Who needs coffee in the morning.
That is why I sold my Storz. After shearing mounting bolts twice. I never lost the shifter, It was just hanging on the bottom of the mount. I suppose they were not designed for anger-stomp shifts. I've never had an issue with the OEM set up.
 

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used ta could
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The Sato is definitely the bee’s knees. The bearings at the pivot are what I’m working on now.
 
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