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Battery Removal

7K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  orforester 
#1 ·
Anybody had their battery out yet? Any surprises, or just follow the instructions in the user manual?
 
#2 ·
It's a bitch. My SE Tech says to check the battery box for loose bolts. ;) Later,
 
G
#3 ·
It's not so bad. Just follow the manual. Taking the nut off on the negative cable on the engine case near the starter makes it easier to pull the battery out the side - just don't pull the battery out too far before you take the cable off the negative post of the battery or you'll be fishing the cable back through a tight spot. And yes - all of my bolts/nuts were loose from the factory.
 
#12 ·
beemerjim, I had to do like Phaedrus said, disconnect earth lead from motor casing because the battery wouldn't pull out far enough else, Also if you turn the ignition on first the alarm doesn't go off, learnt this the second time I done it ;)
 
#4 · (Edited)
I just got mine and wanted to put the battery tender harness on it and see how the battery was . Looked brand new . I was able to slip it out the side without taking off the seat . I un hinged and slipped the battery box bracket off easily and removed it . The positive cable bolt was in crooked but tight on disassembly when I went to install all went well until it wouldn't start . I guess its stripped or cross threaded . Trying to figure out what TAP i need . Darn shame to loose a new battery . Sure wish they just had a terminal end with a bolt and nut . This is a mess . Have no idea what size the bolt is used a 10 mm wrench . I need one a little longer regardless as I add things . Terrible set up or I am missing something . I was pretty happy until that last step before buttoning everything up . I just had to put the connectors back in the right places . Should of taken 15 minutes been spending 15 minutes every day when I could spare it . At least the battery doesn't have any draws on it the bike has sat 10 days ;-)ps I only had one cable on my negative side i saw there aren't two are their ? I hope one didn't fall back in that hole lol . I have enough projects in limbo and no manuals yet ;-) There is a sportster video on youtube that might help a little
 
#5 · (Edited)
Bumping this as I'm attempting my first XR battery swap and the how-to's for sportster battery removal appear different. The clips on the side cover are different and there's more crap in the way of the battery on the XR.

Tips welcome. My main concern is: do I really have to disconnect the negative cable from the case first? Or is there enough slack to pull the battery out, disconnect the positive, then disconnect the negative from the terminal? I don't really want to go buy a swivel-head socket if I don't have to, and it seems like PITA.

Halp.
 
#6 ·
I've found that it's much easier to disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the crankcase. There's enough slack to pull everything out without having to completely remove the ground cable from the bike.
 
#7 ·
My cables are long enough that I can disconnect the both at the terminals. Easy-Peasy. Instructions and professionals always tell you to pull the main fuse (I never do).
 
#9 ·
Also I read on another thread that you have to have the key turned on it when you are replacing the battery or something? They seem to think that you would FUBAR everything if you didn't have the ignition turned on. Does anyone know if that is true or can you give me an exclamation as to why that would be the case?
 
#17 ·
So I just put a newer battery in my bike, followed all the video, but when I plugged in the main fuse all I got was the turn signals on, no fuel pump noise? I turn the key on nothing, but the highbeam on and turnsignals? What did I do wrong? I checked all the fuses and they are good as well as the main fuse...……..
 
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