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Some tips about the code P0562...

26K views 93 replies 15 participants last post by  MadDogXR 
#1 ·
Hello friends ...


I'm with a problem and do not know what the solution is.


in the video below talks about my problem.


I hope I have explained right and you guys can understand my English terrible.


the problem is with the code of my XR1200 P0562


If anyone can help me I thank you from the bottom of my heart.

 
#4 ·
#3 ·
Neto click onto the thread Roy has put up its good!
Get your battery checked for holding its charge.Charge it up tonight its a low battery fault.That black main cable going to earth on the engine from your Neg batt terminal make sure both ends are clean and tightened down properly ,clean up all your fuses and relays.But read that thread its good.
JoeP was joking about the Spam thing never take the mad Texan too seriously or me come to think of it.

Sam:devil:
 
#5 ·
Hey Sam.... thanks for the help....

About JoeP.... i like him a lot....

Once upon a time, a young brazilan named Neto, a young man who tried to visit the United States, he had three cars, two quarters horses participating in reinning championships in Brasil valued at $ 30,000, two bikes, one suzuki GSXR1100, and a yamaha XT660, an English school, and he was studying at a university .... it was in 2000.

the young neto went to the consulate to get your visa to go to the US, and there was a man who was behind a desk with a Evil look.... and he looked back at that young guy and said ...


You can not step on American soil, because you do not prove linkages with your country, and the young Neto said ....


What else do I need to have in addition thenthree cars, two quarters horses participating in reinning championships in Brasil valued at $ 30,000, two bikes, one suzuki GSXR1100, and a yamaha XT660, an English school, and he was studying at a university?

Doesn´t it prove linkages with my country?


And the Big american boss with the Evil look, stood up and said ....


Thank you mister Neto!

And left the room, leaving the young Neto with a sad look, because he did not understand why he was banned to realize his dream of entering in a country as beautiful as the usa ....


lololollolollolol


Finally, when I signed up in xr1200ownersgroup, and soon created a topic inviting participants to use the whatsaap, and Mr. Joep banned me forum, at that moment all that feeling of 14 years ago back in to my chest, but different from that Big American boss from consulate, Mr. Joep, thought again, and brought me back to this wonderful forum, which I love so much ....

Thanks mister JoeP....


And because of JoeP atitude today I have several friends in the United States between them my good friend Joep.

Even never stepping on AMERICAN ground !!!


So every time I record a video I like to do that joke with my friend Joep ...

Just it....:beer:
 
#8 ·
What I don´t understand is sometimes nothing happens.... everything works nice..... and sudenly both lights.. battery and injecion start turn on.... If it was the regulator, the lights sould be on all the time.... isn´t?

it is driven me crazy....
 
#39 ·
What I don´t understand is sometimes nothing happens.... everything works nice..... and sudenly both lights.. battery and injection start turn on.... If it was the regulator, the lights sould be on all the time.... isn't?
That makes me think that somewhere you have a wire that isn't making good contact.

Look around that area where you said there was a stripped wire.

Look closely. See if something is lose or the wiring insulation is stripped off.

...I measured the voltage and on idling it was 1,100 rpm 12 V~ and 4,000 rpm it was 24 - 26
If your wiring is OK, that voltage regulator is bad. The company you sent it to may not have tested it at 4000 RPM.

I can get you one to Brazil for under $100, but customs may grab it and make you pay import taxes:

eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/280923073005
Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MBPXHE

Both are the same price.

But, if there is a wire causing the problems, a new voltage regulator isn't going to make any difference.
 
#10 ·
ok.... I´m working now, but as i arrive home I´ll check i out...

Yesterday, I use the meter and about 4000 rpm it was about 13v.... and when the batery and injeccion light turn on it was 3 or 4v....

Just contacts problem or it could be the regulator?

here in brasil hd owners say that it was a hd recall to change the regulators os few bikes... but in brasil the hd dealers doesn´t care about it.... the refuse to chenge to broken piece....
 
#12 ·
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKsNenRxFsM

Sounds like your ground wire is making partial contact sometimes. The vibrations of the engine are causing it to loose/gain contact. Trace the black wire from the battery to where it attaches to the bike, unbolt it, clean the wire end and the spot it touches on the bike. Before you bolt it back up slide the battery out enough to do the same thing to where the black wire attaches to the battery. Hook everything back up and give it a ride.

If that doesn't fix it then you will have ruled out one of the most common gremlins of the bike.
 
#15 ·
*** THIS***
This is the first thing I would do, do you know how old the battery is?, if it is the original one that came with the bike, it's close to 6 years old!. Even though our bikes have rubber isolated engines, it's still a Harley..., and Harley's vibrate, add to that , those roads in em Monte Verde and I'm sure things are shaking all over the place.
take the time to remove the battery, leave the earth cable connected to the battery and unbolt it from the lug on the engine case that it connects to, disconnect the positive cable and pull the battery out with the neg cable still attached to the battery.
really look over that negative cable, it can look fine from the outside, but might be corroded inside so check it carefully.
see if the battery will accept a charge, if it's really old, it might be on its last legs.
could it be the Stator (yes), could it be the voltage regulator (yes), but 90% of the time, with these 2009 models its a simple poor connection.
i seem to remember you cleaned all your connections earlier and used some white grease when re assembling those fuses.
once you eliminate the battery, or its connections, we can move on from there..
 
#24 ·
I don't know, Neto.

Here what I found at http://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...light-and-battery-light-with-code-p0562.html:

Bluehighways said:
Code P0562 is an SAE Specified OBDII Diagnostic Trouble Code.

Code P0562 is "System Voltage Low"

I do not know precisely what the threshold voltage is that Harley-Davidson uses to set this code but I'd imagine that it is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 10.5 Volts. In other words; the ECU will set this code if System Voltage at the ECU terminal falls below the threshold voltage while the engine is running.

The Battery Light will come "On" if the output of the Charging System (Stator) is less that Battery Voltage at the Voltage Regulator.

The Charging System Alternator consists of a Permanent Magnet Rotor, and a Delta Wound Stator. The three terminals from the Stator go to the Voltage Regulator which also contains the Rectifier Bridge Diodes.

In addition to the three Stator wires; the Voltage Regulator has a Ground Wire and a Positive Wire that goes through a 40 Amp Main Fuse to the Battery (+) terminal at the Starter Motor.

So-o-o-o-o where to start? You will need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM). These can be purchased for as little as $5. For your purposes a more expensive DVOM is not required. But in any case Start with the easy stuff first; items 1 and 2 below:

1.) Check for a blown Main fuse.
If the fuse is blown you'll need to find out why. This doesn't happen for a random reason. Unfortunately the scope of this site can't encompass all of the possibilities for this but a damaged wire between the fuse and the Starter Motor or maybe a faulty Voltage Regulator would be the two most likely culprits and I would check them in that order.

2.) Check the wiring connections at the Voltage Regulator:
On one side of Voltage regulator there are two wires. The Red wire goes to the 40 Amp Fuse. The Black Wire goes to the Main Wiring Harness ground near the Battery. On the other side of the Voltage Regulator there are three wires and they are all Black. These three wires go to the Stator. All of the wires should be clean and tight. If you have any doubts; disconnect the terminals/connections and clean them with "Electrical Terminal Contact Cleaner" or B&W TV Tuner Cleaner. The former available at most Auto Parts stores and the latter from Radio Shack or similar. Other cleaning agents (like Carburetor Cleaner or Brake Clean) either will not work or may actually damage the plastic connectors. Also disconnect and clean (Bright and Shiny Clean) the Ground Wire for the Voltage Regulator (Black Wire).

3.) Check the Stator:
First with an AC (Alternating Current) Voltmeter. With the Voltage Regulator disconnected: Read the AC Voltage between each of the three wires and the other two wires. This means you will test each wire twice. (This is more readings than are actually needed, but I am assuming that you are not a trained technician and it's easier to do it this way than to explain which readings to get and which don't matter.) Take your readings at approximately 2,000 Engine RPM. All of the readings should be between 32 and 46 volts. If some of the readings are good and others are bad you will need a Stator.
Second, If all of the AC Voltage readings are low or zero; switch the meter to the Ohms position and with all three wires still disconnected from the Voltage Regulator and the Engine Off read the resistance between each of the three wires and the other two wires. All of the readings should be 0.1 to 0.3 Ohms. If any of the readings are infinite (The Ohmmeter may read O.L. for Open Loop) the Stator has failed. If the Ohmmeter tests are Good, But the AC Volt test is Bad the Rotor has failed.

4.) If the Rotor and Stator are Good, and the Wiring and the Fuse are Good. The Voltage Regulator has failed.
Good luck!

Do you need an electronic version of the Service Manual?
 
#26 ·
I don't know, Neto.

Here what I found at http://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...light-and-battery-light-with-code-p0562.html:



Good luck!

Do you need an electronic version of the Service Manual?
Hey Joep, thanks Bro...

I was talking to my friend and bike mechanic, I´ll need to take the bike to him, I don´t have a pick up, so It´s 215 kilometers far from my house, I am going to put my old chevy´s battery on the passanger seat, and conect that battery to the bike, doing this way, I can arrive there....

He told me by the fone, the same thing that was written in your post, first relays, then stator then regulator.....

But first of all, he told me that he already fixed a HD with the same problem, and it wasn´t regulator, estator, or even relays.... it was the switch of the bike.... he told me that HD never cared about isolate the switch of HDs, so when you wash, or even rains some water could get inside the switch and ruin the conection and turn on the lights...

Of course.... COULD BE!! or COULDN`T!!!

And he will come back to work january 5, and after that I´ll take the bike to him...

Then I´ll tell to all of you what is the problem and what will be the solution...

Thanks a lot.....

If any of you have Whatsapp, I would send pics and some short movies real time...

any way....

Marry Christmas folks...
 
#25 ·
Has anyone ever cranked the XR and removed the hot wire from the battery? Should it stay running if the charging system is working correctly?

If you absolutely have to ride the bike somewhere you can make two heavy wires (12 gauge or so) that would attach to the battery in the bike then be able to reach a battery strapped on the back rack or the seat if you don't have a rack.
 
#27 ·
As we 'Merican's say, "That sucks, Neto!"

I'm sorry to hear about your problems. If you weren't so damn far away, I'd drive my truck over and give you a lift.

I look forward to hearing what the problem was.

As for Whatsapp, I've got a very basic phone. No iOS. No Android. No Windows. Just a plain 10-key.

They should make Whatsapp for the PC. I use the PC when I want to visit online.

Felise Navidad!
 
#29 ·
Neto if you have a volt meter you should have 13.4 volts at idle with the connections at the battery terminals anything less your regulator or stator is shot. Infact you should be able to disconnect the stator plug from the engine and read voltage there, again you should have 13.4-18V there hence the rectifier/regulator to adjust the voltage so not to burn up the battery. Good luck
 
#30 ·
Hi, Jeff B,

Let me tell you.....
Today I got my volt meter, and in the plug that link the stator to the regulator tha tyou can see in the pic,
Automotive tire Light Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood


Well, in that point, some body stripped the wire, and I measured the voltage and on idling it was 1.100 rpm 12 V~ and 4.000rpm it was 24 - 26....

At the same time, I measured the voltage of the connections of the battery and at any rpm it was 11.59 - 12.... nothing less and nothing more....

So I believe that the stator is ok, and the problem is the regulator....

As I decided before..... I´ll wait till january, and take the bike to my hometown, to a mechanic friend of mine find and fix the problem...

Then I comeback here to tell all of you what is going wrong...

Thanks...
 
#31 ·
Yep your stator is fine. i was basing the 18V on my old generator bike. Stators may put out more voltage as seen in your results. However your voltage regulator/rectifier is gone. I dont know what they cost in your country but a guy like Joe P has helped many people out with getting parts for alot less then you can buy. Why these HD parts must cost so much abroad is beyond me
 
#33 ·
Yeap!!

I´m not riding it, and I can´t believe that I´m riding it for 5 months with the wires striped?

Thanks God they didn´t ground out a short.....

Thanks again
 
#36 ·
Hello everybody,


I took the regulator of my bike, and I sent it to a company that repairs stators and regulators, and they said that the XR1200 and buell regulators, the resin that is placed on his back, are very soft, and when the engine heats up much, that resin gets too softens causing the rupture of cold welding.


Well, I sent the regulator for this company and they got sent me back, put on the bike, and nothing has changed.


I think then the problem is in the stator, but the fuc#%$&*% mechanics of my city do not work with HD, and I do not find a pick up large enough to take my bike to my hometown ...


I wanted to try to take the stator with my own hands, but I do not know how this can be done, and I think do not have the right tools for the job.


Is there any post here on the forum that can help me do it myself?


Thank you friends, I am anxious, long time no use my bike ....
 
#37 ·
Hey Neto.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

The good news is the stator is not difficult to replace. If you are careful, you can even reuse the big gasket.

A lot of people have removed the stator when doing the "Scotty Mod", so the best thing to do is review how it is done.

http://www.jp2code.net/xr/ScottyMod.aspx

There are other threads on here about it, but that one eliminates the chatter.
 
#38 ·
Hello friends,


I am reporting to you that as I told you guys I sent the reagulador to a specialized company, and nothing changed. After that the owner of the company and some mechanical friends I have, said to me that if the problem is not the regulator would be the stator, I called the mechanical nearest here in my town 90km, who works with HD, and he wanted $ 200 reais to pick the bike, and more $ 400 reais to remove the stator from the bike, I didn´t think it was a fair price and decided to remove bymiself the stator, and to my surprise the stator is in perfect condition, and I already sent the stador to the company along with the regular and they will test everything.


Someone of you guys may wonder if it could be a broken wire between the regulator and the battery, well I put a direct wire from the regulator plug to the Battery poles discarding the possibility of a bad contact and nothing has changed ... Or is the regulator or the stator.


Thank you guys to listen and helping me with my problem...

Automotive tire Bicycle part Lifebuoy Rim Jewellery
Auto part Machine Metal Gas Fashion accessory
Finger Camera lens Audio equipment Personal protective equipment Gas
Body jewelry Auto part Jewellery Circle Circuit component
Hand Green Camera accessory Finger Gadget
Automotive tire Picture frame Bicycle part Gas Auto part
 
#42 ·
I have a spare brand new regulator and stator around here somewhere ..... Haven't seen 'em in a while .... Bought the regulator to fix a prob that turned out to be relay and fuse connections .... Bought the stator off a "clearance" table at the Harley dealer .... I don't remember what I paid but I know it was cheap enough to get me to buy something I didn't need :)
 
#44 ·
Let me help you....

Brasilian gasoline: US$ 5.148 gallon American Dollar
xr1200 Voltage regulator: US$ 293 American Dollar
xr1200 Stator: I was not brave enough to ask:nono:

Recipe Bun Font Sandwich Ingredient


This is brasil...while a Honda Fit funded in Brazil costs US$ 37,000, the same vehicle costs about $ 20,000 in the United States. In neighboring Argentina, the Fit financed costs $ 23,000, as determined by the CSM South America.

So if I bought a stator and a regulator I would never forget were I put them.....

I would put inside a crystal dome over the fireplace ... and admire all day like a trofel......hahahahahahahaha.......:tank:
 
#43 ·
hello my dear friends ... Missing all of you... my xr is taking me all my free time that´s why I´m not here anymore....


Long time we don´t chat ....


I will report to you the news about the novel called "NETO versus XR1200"


First I sent the regulator to fix, he sent back and nothing has changed (you already knew that)


I took the stator off the bike and it was perfect without any problem, I sent again to the company the regulator and the stator, they wrapped / redid it again, using resin and all they could do to make the stator equal to a new one.


After he repaired the estator ans the regulator he made all the test in the test bench and everything was okay.


Well, he sent me back both I put again the parts on the bike with the help of a friend who works with big motorcycles


AND NOTHING HAS CHANGED AGAIN !!!!


Now he sent me another regulator of a buell 1200 that he had saved in the company so I could replace to see if something would change.


He warned me that the Buell´s regulator sends higher voltage than the XR1200 regulator


Here are the results of the tests:


With the old (xr1200) regulator:


After 2 or 3 minutes the engine running:
Temperature around the spark plug: 160 degrees celcius
Regulator Temperature: 43 degrees Celcius
voltage: 1.100rpm = 14.1
4.000rpm = 14.1
5.500rpm = 14.1


After 6 or 7 minutes with the engine running:
Temperature around the spark plug: 200 degrees celcius
Regulator Temperature: 67 degrees Celcius


After 6 or 7 minutes:
injection lamp lights
battery lamp lights

Error code: P0562 = low voltage


voltage drops to 12.1
1.100rpm = 12.1
4.000rpm = 12.1
5.500rpm = 12.1





With the Buell regulator he sent me:


After 2 or 3 minutes with the engine running:
Temperature around the spark plug: 160 degrees celcius
Regulator Temperature: 43 degrees Celcius
voltage: 1.100rpm = 12.7
4.000rpm = 13.5
5.500rpm = 14.0


After 6 or 7 minutes with the engine running:
Temperature around the spark plug: 200 degrees celcius
Regulator Temperature: 67 degrees Celcius
voltage: 1.000rpm = 13.0
4.000rpm = 15.0
5.500rpm = 17.1

Only light injection lit, and all bike lights flickered, headlight, panel and
Error Code: P0563 = high voltage


With the original regulator I ride the bike and everything works, when I stop the bike at a traffic light for two or three minutes the lights turn on and the voltage drops, if I turn off the bike and I wait few minutes and turn the bike on again everything returns to normal.


I'm waiting now, I'll just talk to the company next Thursday, because the next days here in brasil carnival is happening, may lack water, the governemet can charge us 70% of the value of a piece of harley if we want to import to brazil, our president can steal Petrobras, our gasoline can cost more than double the gasoline in the US, but carnival brasilians can not miss .... ridiculous.


Anyway, I will wait to see if he can fix or I'll have to buy a new one, my aussie friend is in australia and he found there in australia for AU $ 99.00, but with the rate of 70% import is at 170,00 A$ = $ 442.00 $ real, here at the dealership of harley in sao paulo the same piece costs $ 815 reais.


That's it, I will wait to see if the company can fix my old voltage regulator, or I ask my friend to bring me one from Australia .....


It never ends ....

Luv u guys.... I wish we live closer....
 
#45 ·
Please please PLEASE track down the black wire off of the battery to where it attaches to the bike itself, unbolt it, clean both the wire end (use a file & remove all the crud on the end, top & bottom) & the spot on the bike (wire brush, Brillo pad, hammer & chisel!) where it would attach, apply some dielectric grease of some kind lightly, then put it all back together. Hell, I would even completely remove the ground wire & check to make sure it isn't broken inside the plastic somewhere. Flex it around a little & if there is a problem you should see, feel, & maybe even hear it.

The hotter a wire gets the less conductivity it has & if the connection isn't good the wire can get very damn hot. The hotter it gets the the more the charging system has to work making it even hotter. If the ground isn't good then it doesn't matter how well the charging system is performing, it wont charge. :beer:
 
#46 ·
Hey my friend Sadwingsragn..... I think you already told me..... and I already did it, The same way you sad.... step by step.... and is everything okay.... the black wire is ok....I cleaned all the pieces... and there wasn't any kind of crud.... nothing wrong.....nothing....

Thanks man... I really thank you very much.... I wish it was the problem....but it is not!

:(
 
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